The Latour quickly took control, however. This was a deep, classic and great wine from the very first sniff, its touch of wood integrating into a wealth of mint, eucalyptus and black fruits. This was clearly special stuff.

Saturated ruby-red. Dark berries, violet, licorice and a note of torrefaction. Explosive, pure flavors are almost too big for the mouth. Finishes with big, sweet tannins and expanding, exhilarating flavors of pruneaux and crystallized dark berries. Perfectly integrated oak. A great Latour.

Fabulous aromas of crushed raspberries, plums and blackberries. Mind-blowing nose. Full-bodied, with soft and silky tannins and a long caressing finish. Hard not to drink now, but leave it alone.

Tasted blind as a vintage comparison at the Valandraud vertical, the 1996 Latour is a wine that continues to perplex. I just think that given the vintage, the team would have made a far superior wine nowadays. That said, it is still a very fine Pauillac. Here, it conveyed a sense of "airiness" on the bouquet, more backward and surly than other bottles tasted with attractive damp earth and leather aromas. It feels strict and uncompromising when compared to others. The palate is medium-bodied with light and supple tannin, tart red berry fruit, black pepper and plenty of tobacco indicating its Pauillac origins. This is a well balanced, correct and elegant Latour, not the powerhouse of the 2000 or 2005, yet continuing to give drinking pleasure unabated after two decades. Tasted December 2016.